Barbering Techniques for Hairstylists by Arden Magtiza and Gary Franceshini is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, except where otherwise noted.
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The demand for barber services is growing in the hairstylist industry. Whether you are working in a salon environment or a designated barber shop, it is becoming more and more necessary for hairstylists to have a basic knowledge of barbering services in order to meet the growing expectations of their clients.
This manual serves as a guide for apprentices who desire to grow beyond their foundational haircutting knowledge and skills, and expand their knowledge to include more advanced barbering services, such as beard and moustache design, and straight razor shaves.
Whether you have completed a Hairstylist Foundations program, apprenticeship program, or are currently enrolled in Hairstylist Level 2 or equivalent, this resource will be valuable to you.
Learning Objectives
Topics covered in this resource include:
This book was written in collaboration with professional barber, Michael Kluthe, and was created with valuable input from members of the B.C. Hairdressing Articulation Committee.
Thank you to the team at BCcampus, namely Tim Carson and Josie Gray, for funding this resource and for the help and support along the way.
Big thanks also go out to Dr. Sally Vinden. Your support and guidance, along with your editing prowess and input, were invaluable as always.
Learning Objectives
A thorough design consultation and assessment is the basis for a successful barbering service. It is the stylist’s responsibility to assess the client’s individual physical and personal attributes to suggest a suitable hairstyle and facial hair design.
So what makes for a good consultation?
Your assessment should include:
During the consultation phase of the barbering service, it is important for the barber/stylist to have the ability to recognize and determine the client’s facial shape. Face shape is an important component of any haircut or facial hair design. This is because the shape of the final look can highlight or detract from certain facial features. Be sure to take the client’s preferences into account, and use tact when suggesting a certain style.
The most common face shapes are as follows:
The oval face is considered to have the most ideal proportions. This shape has balanced symmetry, and those with an oval face shape can easily wear most hair styles and beard designs. Keep in mind, however, that an overgrown beard that is either very wide or very long will detract from the oval’s natural symmetry. |
The round face has a fairly equal length-to-width proportion, with a softer jawline and shorter chin. Haircuts and styles that provide height on the top of the head, width above the temple, or angular shapes will help the lengthen the round face shape. When shaping facial hair on a round face, the goal is to create an illusion of angles or length. Keep the sides closely cropped to avoid adding width, and instead put focus on lengthening the chin area to create a more oval appearance. Add angles by cleaning up and shaping the upper outline of the beard into a straighter line. A goatee is also a great option for the round face, as it creates the illusion of length at the chin. |
Similar to the round face shape, the square shape has a fairly equal length-to-width ratio, but is discernible by its strong angles at the hairline and chin. A more rounded haircut with soft edges towards the temples will help to soften the strong corners of the square face shape. When suggesting a beard style, you’ll want to avoid adding emphasis to the angular jaw. As with the round face, keep the sides closely cropped and add length at the chin to slim the face and create the illusion of a more oval shape. In this case, keep the silhouette of the beard more rounded. A circle beard is a good option here. |
The oblong is the most elongated face shape, with a strong jaw and higher hairline. Side-swept hairstyles that move over the temples soften the appearance of the hairline, and create the appearance of a shorter face. When shaping the facial hair on an oblong face, avoid suggesting a style that will add more length. Instead, keep the beard closely cropped or opt for a moustache to break up the elongated proportions. |
The triangular face shape has prominent cheekbones with a narrow jawline and a pointed chin. The heart-shaped face carries the same features, but with a peak at the centre of the front hairline. Haircuts that maintain length and/or add fullness at the nape as well as the jawline will create balance on the triangular face shape. For the facial hair design, avoid adding more width at the temples, and instead opt to suggest a beard style that is fuller at the chin so as to create balance with the cheekbones and soften the sharp angles. |
The pear facial shape is recognizable by a narrow forehead with width at the jaw. To create balance, haircuts that add fullness to the sides, temples, and the top of the head are recommended. For this face shape, suggest facial hair designs that provide a slimming effect at the chin, such as a goatee or a closely cropped beard so as to avoid adding additional width or bulk at the jawline. |
The diamond face shape has an elongated appearance, with high cheekbones, a narrow forehead, and a pointed chin. Textured hairstyles that add width at the temples and chin are ideal to create a more oval appearance. For this client, avoid adding additional length at the chin, and instead suggest a beard style that adds some fullness and width to the cheeks and chin to create balance with the prominent cheekbones. |
Typically, the length and width of a moustache should be designed in relation to the size of the client’s facial features. For example, strong/heavy features require a larger moustache design for a balanced appearance, while fine/slight features require a smaller moustache design. Take into consideration the size of the nose, the upper lip shape, the width of the mouth, and the width of the chin, jaw, and cheeks. As a barber, you have the ability to enhance or detract from the client’s prominent facial features with the chosen style of moustache. Use the same principles as you would with hair styles for facial and beard design.
Prior to performing a haircut or facial hair design, the barber/stylist must also assess the client’s head shape. Head shape will influence what length(s) and techniques will be used to create balance, proportion, and suitability for the client.
Generally, heads are comprised of rounded areas (crown, parietal, and occipital), concave curved areas (below the occipital towards the nape), and flat areas (sides and top of head). Often, when we do a visual assessment of a client’s head shape, we will discover that not everyone fits the general description above. For example, a client that has a flat, and squared off head shape may benefit from a haircut that is more rounded in shape so as to soften the overall appearance. Other physical features such as ridges, a predominant occipital bone, flat or indented areas, or even a scar in the nape area require specific attention. They also provide warnings, telling you to consider all factors before tapering the cut as closely as you were initially thinking.
A pronounced occipital bone can affect the nape trim, namely in the way in which you will blend the nape area into the rest of the haircut. If there is a ridge in the skull, it is best to leave the areas below and above slightly longer than the hair directly over the ridge so as to detract from it, and to allow for a smoother and straighter transition. If the client wants to disguise the ridge completely, suggest a slightly longer cut and avoid tightly faded styles.
Flat or indented areas can occur anywhere on the head, including the nape. If the head is asymmetrical in shape, it is best to shorten and shape the hair on either side of the flat area first, so that you can use that hair as a guide while working over the indented area, so as to create a smooth transition and the appearance of a symmetry.
Occasionally you will have a client that has scalp folds or scarring in the nape area. If the client wishes to hide these features, opt for a slightly longer hairstyle that allows for enough length in the nape to blend the hair seamlessly over the area.
Why are growth patterns important to consider before starting a service?
Growth patterns play a tremendous role in how the hair will respond to being cut. They also inform the barber/stylist as to which techniques will be used to cut the hair. Prior to performing a service, pay careful attention to the direction of the hair growth and any changes in the grain.
The grain is established by the direction in which the hair grows out of the surface of the skin. The grain changes when hair growing in one direction meets up with hair growing in the opposite or differing direction. Whorls, double crowns, and cowlicks are all visual indicators of growth patterns and the direction of grain.
During the pre-service consultation, the stylist/barber must evaluate for growth patterns and direction of grain particularly around the client’s hairline and the nape area. This is especially important when hair is to be cut or removed entirely. When shaping the nape, the general rule is to follow the client’s natural hairline, rather than creating an entirely new shape. This encourages a more natural look as the hair grows back between services. While the stylist/barber is required to make recommendations regarding the client’s hairline, they must also take into consideration the client’s preferences.
When removing excess nape hair with a razor, it is best to follow the grain of the hair growth to minimize discomfort and ingrown hairs. In some instances, if further removal or closeness is required, a procedure may be used to shave against the grain. You will find further information on this in Chapter 4.
While we see endless combinations of growth patterns on the nape and scalp, we tend to see more predictable growth patterns while performing facial hair design and shaves.
In Hairstylist Level 1, you will have learned about various scalp and skin abnormalities. This chapter advances on that knowledge to cover specific skin issues of the face and nape that a barber/stylist will be required to recognize during the consultation, prior to performing a trimming or shaving service. Although many skin growths and blemishes are harmless in nature, they require special attention when performing a hair-removal service so as to avoid accidental laceration when using shears, trimmers, clippers, and razors that come into close contact with the skin.
In this chapter we will take a closer look at the following:
Growths on the skin are caused by an accumulation of skin cells. Typically, growths appear as flat or raised with a varying degree of pigmentation from skin tone to black.
Growths are classified as either:
Controlled growths, such as benign moles or skin tags, are caused by factors such as genetics, viruses (i.e., warts), sun exposure, and diseases that are systemic in the body.
A mole is formed when the melanocytes produce coloured spots or marks on the skin’s surface. Moles can vary in colour from skin tone to black, and can have either a flat or raised appearance. Over time, moles may change in colour and shape. Therefore, it is recommended to monitor them for abnormalities.
When trimming or removing hair around a mole, work carefully. Protect or move the mole out of the way with your finger, if possible, while cutting or shaving so as to avoid an accidental injury.
Skin tags can often be found on the neck. They are flesh-coloured flaps that are small and soft to the touch. Although harmless, care should be taken when removing hair near and around a skin tag. Use the same technique with skin tags as you did with moles.
A blemish appears as a spot, discoloration, or imperfection on the surface of the skin. The three most common blemishes that a barber/stylist will see on a client’s face or neck are whiteheads, blackheads, and pustules/pimples.
Although blemishes are generally not harmful, clients may be embarrassed or distressed by them. The appearance, development, and reoccurrence of most blemishes can be controlled by a healthy diet, professional skincare, and/or over-the-counter medicated products. If a client is unable to manage their skin, you can advise them to seek the advice of a physician or a dermatologist.
Ingrown hairs are the result of dead skin cells congesting the hair follicle. This causes the hair to grow sideways or turn back onto itself underneath the skin, rather than growing upward to the skin’s surface as expected. An ingrown hair typically appears as a small raised bump which will likely resolve itself over time. However, if an ingrown hair becomes inflamed or infected, it will bear a cyst-like appearance and may require antibiotic treatment.
Ingrown hairs can result from a shave service, if proper care is not taken. This issue will be discussed further in Chapter 4.
Scars are caused when the dermis layer of the skin is damaged. This damage can occur from an injury or from a blemish that did not heal correctly. Not all scars are cause for concern. However, if a scar is raised, the barber/stylist must take care not to apply excess pressure to the razor or trimmer as it passes over the scarred area during the service.
Due to the vast array of clients that a barber/stylist will see over the course of a week, it is quite likely that they will encounter clients that have skin sensitivities.
Signs of skin sensitivities include:
What causes skin sensitivities? Skin sensitivities can be caused by a variety of external or internal factors. Some examples are listed in the chart below:
External Factors | Internal factors |
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|
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Considerations for treating sensitive skin during a barbering service:
Learning Objectives
In Level 1 Hairstylist, you learned about the tools that are used for haircutting, including their parts and functions. Let’s explore the tools that are used for facial hair design and hair removal in both the nape and facial areas.
Shears are used for haircuts to remove length and bulk and to create the shape of the design. A shear-over-comb technique is used for the removal of nape hair, facial hair design, and the trimming of eyebrows. In addition, shears can be used to remove hair entirely by placing the blades flat against the skin. However, when extreme closeness is desired, clippers, trimmers, or a razor are preferable to shears because they create a closer result.
Video: Using Shears to Trim the Side of a Beard
Note: Video has no sound.
Clippers are used for various techniques when performing a hair reduction service, such as length removal and blending, or to remove the majority of the hair prior to a shaving service. There are many styles of clippers available. Some features to consider when purchasing a clipper are size, weight, performance, and power supply (corded or cordless).
Many clippers come with a standard set of blades attached and rely on additional guard attachments to determine the length the hair will be cut. Alternatively, some brands of clippers have detachable blades in various sizes that are designed to cut the hair to different lengths without the need for a guard attachment.
Why use a clipper and not a trimmer? Clippers are useful for working on larger areas or where a large amount of hair needs to be reduced or removed.
The trimmer is a smaller, more compact version of the clipper. This makes the trimmer ideal for detailing, refining, and outlining a haircut or facial design, and trimming eyebrows. The trimmer is also referred to as an outliner or edger.
Trimmers come in a variety of blade widths and designs (i.e., straight or T-shaped blade). Their use depends on the barber/stylist’s preference, or on specific design techniques used in particular areas of the face and nape.
Trimmers have a much finer cutting blade than that of clippers, so when used with light pressure on the skin they can effectively remove the hair without discomfort. Keep in mind that using too much pressure with a trimmer/outliner runs the same risk of causing abrasions or irritation as the larger clipper.
Guards are attachments that are made to fit clippers and trimmers. They enable the hair to be cut to an even, predetermined length. Guards are most often made of hard plastic. However, there are rubber and steel varieties available as well.
Due to the rigidity of the guards, there may be a loss of tension throughout the cutting process. This loss of tension can result in lines, ridges, or uneven results in the final design. To avoid imperfections when using a guarded clipper, use multiple passes from multiple directions to ensure an even and blended outcome.
While combs are available in various styles or sizes, there are two styles used primarily in facial hair and nape services. The all-purpose cutting comb is useful for scissor-over-comb and clipper-over-comb techniques, when removing length through the beard or nape areas. The tapered cutting comb is ideal for moustache trims and blending in tight areas such as around the ears.
Shaving services that demand a close, clean cut require the use of a razor. These services include facial, nape, and neck shaving. The outlining of a haircut can also be achieved using a razor as an alternative to shears.
A razor is the sharpest cutting tool available to the barber/stylist, and is available in two styles:
The single-use razor is a lighter-weight option that uses disposable blades. The blades are slid into the head of the razor and can be used with or without a guard. These razors are favorable as they do not require the need to hone or strop the blade, and they are easier to keep clean and sanitary due to their disposable nature.
A single-use blade razor is used in two ways:
The conventional straight blade razor is a steel implement that has been balanced and tempered for optimal use. These razors must be thoroughly cleaned after each client, and require constant maintenance by honing and stropping the razor to maintain a sharp cutting edge.
Honing is the process of sharpening the razor by methodically stroking the blade edge along a hone, which is a block of abrasive material.
Stropping is the process of smoothing and shaping the honed razor into a precise cutting implement by methodically passing the blade edge along a durable canvas or leather strap.
A good quality conventional straight razor can last a barber/stylist many years if it is consistently sharpened and maintained.
The lather receptacle is used to hold and dispense the soap lather during the shave. The most common receptacles typically used in barber shops today are the electric lather receptacle and the lather mug, which is also known as a barber scuttle.
The lather brush is used to apply soap lather to soften the beard during the shaving process.
The towel warmer is an efficient way to simultaneously store and heat the damp towels needed for the shaving service. Towels are wetted, rung out, and placed within the towel warmer to prepare them for the client.
Neck strips are used to protect the client’s skin from coming into contact with the cape for sanitation and hygiene purposes. They are also useful in providing a barrier to prevent hair from falling below the cape’s edge and causing itchiness and discomfort. Apply a fresh neck strip for each client, and at any time during the service if the strip becomes wet or covered in hair.
The cutting cape is used to protect the client’s clothing and skin from falling hair and lather.
When performing a beard reshaping or a straight razor shave, there is an extensive range of products on the market that can be used to enhance the service. However, selecting the correct product can be challenging, especially with so many brands available, as each have differing claims as to the benefits and features of their products.
This chapter will serve as a guide to break down the basic functions of such products, making it simpler for you to choose the ideal product, regardless of brand.
Products covered in this section are:
Pre-shave products typically come in an oil or gel form. These products are not used by every barber/stylist, or on every client, but may be used for a few primary reasons:
When choosing between an oil or a gel, keep in mind that a client with oily skin will likely benefit from a gel-based product over an oil-based one. Using a gel-based product will prevent excess oil and reduce the chance of creating blocked pores. Alternatively, a client with dry skin will benefit from an oil-based product, because it provides additional moisture and slickness prior to the shave.
The pre-shave product is applied onto clean skin, prior to the shaving lather. In some cases, these oil- or gel-based lubricators can be used as the primary shaving product, as outlined below.
The purpose of a shaving product is to create a thin layer of protection and lubrication, which reduces risk of redness, irritation, ingrown hairs and potential cuts.
Shaving products come in many forms, namely gel, oil, cream, and soap. Some factors to consider when choosing which type to use are: skin type, skin sensitivities, and scent.
Gels have excellent lubricating properties and are a great choice for oily skin with sensitivities.
Oils are a great choice for dry, sensitive skin. They are more lubricating than a cream or soap lather. As stated, these are not ideal for clients with oily or acne-prone skin.
Shave creams generally come in a tube or pot. They create a thick, rich lather when mixed with a small amount of water and emulsified (mixed) with a lather brush using a mug/scuttle.
Shave soaps typically come in a solid puck form. The barber/stylist works the soap into a rich lather by wetting a shave brush, brushing it over the soap bar, then applying to the face using a circular motion so as to encourage the lather to form. Shave soaps typically have a thinner lather in comparison to a cream.
The primary advantage of using using a cream or soap product in addition to, or instead of, a gel or oil product is all due to the application. When cream or soap is applied to the skin using the lather brush and a circular motion, the facial hair is lifted into a more upright position, and it becomes fully saturated with product on all sides. This allows for a closer and smoother shave.
There are numerous post-shave products on the market today. The most commonly used are after-shave tonics, gels, and creams.
After-shave is an astringent product used for three reasons:
The most common forms of aftershave products are:
Gel and cream-based post-shave products are beneficial for replenishing moisture to the freshy shaved skin. It is essential to recommend a good moisturizer for at-home care, to keep the skin healthy and supple in between shaves.
Following a beard trim or reshaping service, nothing finishes off and maintains a client’s new look like the right grooming product!
While there is an endless list of brands and products on the market today, they generally fit into the following categories:
Learning Objectives
A facial hair reduction is suited for the client who wants to maintain their current facial hair style, whereas a reshaping service is for the client that desires a new style altogether.
Reshaping and reduction services can be achieved by performing one, or a combination of, the following methods:
Depending on the length and density of the hair to be removed, it is not uncommon to use all of these bulk removal techniques within your design process.
The clipper/trimmer-over-comb technique is ideal when working on a client who’s beard has equal texture and density throughout. Whereas, in a circumstances where the texture and density of the beard vary throughout, scissor-over-comb may be a better option.
In general, the clipper is used throughout the fuller areas of the beard, and the smaller trimmer/outliner is used in combination with a comb for shaping the moustache and around the ears.
To perform clipper-over-comb:
The shear-over-comb requires more practice and skill than clipper-over-comb. Yet it is a necessary skill for the barber/stylist to perfect in order to provide a full range of services. Keep in mind, the client is sure to appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into performing this technique.
To perform shear-over-comb:
Cutting nape and/or beard hair while the client is seated upright requires the barber/stylist to maintain an upright posture while leaning slightly away from their scissor/shear hand. The elbow of the barber/stylist should be tilted slightly upright, with the shears extended in front of the stylist. This position enables the barber/stylist to open and close the shears rhythmically with the thumb.
In the video below, you will see the shear-over-comb technique being used to trim the sideburn area. In smaller sections, such as the sideburns or eyebrows, the comb remains stationary and is used to simply project the hair away from the face so that the excess hair can be cut using shears.
Note: This video has no sound.
Of all the barber/stylist techniques, the use of a clipper with guard attachment is perhaps the easiest, and often the first technique barber/stylists learn. This is because the guard attachment ensures all hair is cut consistently to the same length throughout, making it an ideal first step when eliminating unwanted hair quickly. To guarantee an all-over even result, the clipper must be carefully guided across the skin as it is moved around the curves and contours of the face.
Because the clipper/trimmer with guard attachment method produces a uniform length throughout, it is recommended that you complete the service by using one of the over-comb techniques so as to customize the nape and facial hair design.
Free-hand shaping, with clippers, trimmers, or shears, is used to trim away strays and fly-aways, and to refine the overall shape. The beard must first be brushed or combed into natural fall, before the excess hair is removed to fit the visual guideline of the overall form.
In this video you will see:
Outlining techniques are commonly referred to as detailing, or finishing techniques. They are the final step of any haircut or facial hair design service.
Detailing techniques are centred on the removal of stray hairs that do not fit into the desired outline of the design. While the primary purpose of detailing is to outline and refine the haircut, including facial and nape hair, remember to also pay attention to the eyebrows and ear hair.
Shears, trimmers, and razors can all be used at various stages of the outlining service. In this chapter we will focus on the use of shears and trimmers. More detail on the straight razor technique can be found in Chapter 4.
Prior to the outlining service, carefully check the nape area, sides of neck, and behind the ears for skin abnormalities such as blemishes, moles, and other growths of the skin. Providing there is no communicable skin diseases, open wounds, and/or skin irritation, it is safe to perform the outlining service. Once you determine that the service is safe to perform, remember to use caution when working around moles and any other raised lesions of the skin.
To detail the finished design with shears, comb the hair past the desired outline, then use the shears to remove any hair which falls outside of the desired outline. The shear-over-comb technique may be used to blend the newly established outline into the beard or haircut if necessary.
Note: This video has no sound.
Follow these guidelines when detailing with shears for a safe and comfortable experience for the client:
Outlining the nape or facial hair with a trimmer/outliner requires the use of a trimmer in good working order, which means trimmer blades must be sufficiently sharp, free from debris, and sanitized according to local standards.
The trimmer will typically be used without a guard attachment when outlining. In addition to the trimmers, a cutting or barbering comb can be used to aid with the creation of straight lines and/or angles in the outline. Alternatively, curved lines, such as around the ears, are generally performed with a free-hand technique. Once an outline is established, the clipper/trimmer-over-comb technique is often used to blend the newly established outline into the beard or haircut.
Follow these guidelines when detailing with trimmers for a safe and comfortable experience for the client:
In addition to outlining, your client may require eyebrow trimming or shaping, and/or removal of stray hairs on the ears. Cleaning these areas up for the client will leave them with a much more polished final look.
The three most common methods to trim the eyebrows are:
Consult with the client to determine whether you will need to eliminate length, density, or both.
To perform an eyebrow shaping service:
Practice extreme caution when trimming eyebrows by using a slow, steady hand when working in this area. Always instruct the client to close their eyes during the service to prevent the trimmed hairs from falling into their eyes.
The trimmer/outliner is used to gently remove stray and unwanted hair from the top, sides, and lobes of the ears. The hair on the inner ear should be removed using a delicate touch so no harm is caused to the inner ear. The use of a t-bladed trimmer is preferable when working in confined spaces.
Throughout history beards have been popular for many reasons such as protection from extreme elements, to intimidate one’s enemies, and even as a status symbol. Today, however, the popularity of facial hair is more about allowing people to express their personality and sense of style.
Besides making a fashion statement, facial hair can be used to accentuate or camouflage facial features and to create a balance of proportions. When shaping a client’s beard or moustache, hair density and growth patterns must be taken into account before the design is executed.
The techniques commonly used during facial design services are:
In this chapter, we focus on techniques and procedures for shaping beards and moustaches. Although such techniques and procedures tend vary significantly from client to client (due to hair density, length, and desired outcome), it is the responsibility of the barber to determine which approach is appropriate throughout the consultation process.
In the following section, we provide a general overview of the techniques and procedures that can be used.
Please consider that every beard trim will be different and will be dependent on many aspects of the client in the chair. The following video is a visual resource to supplement the guidelines above.
Techniques observed in this video are:
Video: Master Barber Shows How to Shape Up Your Beard
Upon completion of all services, the following cleaning and disinfection practices must be completed. Check with local authorities to ensure that these practices are in alignment with the requirements of your area.
As stated above, every beard trim will be different, just as every client that sits in your chair will be different. The following videos are a visual resource to supplement the guidelines above.
Techniques observed in this video are:
Techniques observed in this video are:
Video: Massive, Thick Beard gets Trimmed at the Barbershop
Learning Objectives
The straight razor provides the closest, smoothest shave possible. It is a sharp tool that should be used with caution, as it requires skill and a steady hand.
Before we get started with the straight razor shave service, let’s first review the following topics:
During the pre-shave consultation, the barber/stylist will assess:
Keep in mind that face shape and head shape need to be considered if a partial shave is to be performed, such as a beard shave with a moustache shaping.
Before assessing the client’s skin and growth patterns, it is a good idea to inquire about their use of facial products and/or medications. Some medications and skin care products, such as Accutane and Retinol, can cause the skin to be more sensitive and easily irritated by the shave process. This is also the time to find out if the client has had other sensitivities in the past, such as a reaction to shaving products, an acne breakout after shaving, or whether they have an aversion to the application of hot or cold towels.
Now it’s time to assess the skin prior to the straight shave service. Carefully check the area that is to be shaved for blemishes, moles, or any lesions of the skin. Additionally, if you plan to perform an outline and nape shave, be sure to check the nape area, sides of neck, and behind the ears. Provided there is no communicable skin diseases, open wounds, or skin irritation, it is safe to perform the shave service. Always use caution when working around moles and any other raised areas of the skin.
Before moving on to the razor handling procedure, take a moment to familiarize yourself with the components that make up the standard straight razor. If you have your own razor, lay it open on the table in front of you and identify its parts using the diagram below:
Once you have familiarized yourself with the components of the razor, have a look at the images and instructions below. We suggest that you follow along to practice the procedures to open, hold, and close the razor.
Once you have familiarized yourself with the components of the razor, have a look at the images and instructions below. We suggest that you follow along to practice the procedures to open, hold, and close the razor.
The term razor stroke is used to describe the razor while it is in motion and shaving the skin’s surface.
The way in which the barber/stylist holds the razor in their hand to perform a stroke is called the position. The position will determine the angle of the blade and the direction in which the strokes will be performed. The optimal angle for the blade while shaving the skin is 30 degrees, with the point of the razor leading the stroke.
It is not recommended to shave against the grain of the hair growth pattern, therefore the razor should be positioned to shave with the grain.
There are four razor positions that barbers use to perform shaving services:
Let’s review each of the four razor strokes in further detail, followed by the areas of the face in which each stroke is utilized.
In order to perform a facial shave in a systematic way, the shave zones are divided into fourteen specific areas. It is important to learn the order and direction in which each of these fourteen areas are to be shaved, as well as knowing which razor stroke is to be used in each area.
The diagram photo below outlines the fourteen areas of the facial shave and shows which stroke is used in each. A left handed barber will invert the diagram, beginning on the left side.
Exercise
Sketch and label the diagram above on a head sheet or a mannequin to familiarize yourself with the fourteen shaving areas.
The table below has been created as a quick reference guide to assist the student stylist/barber in learning the strokes and directions that are to be used in each of the fourteen areas. The left of this chart informs the right handed barber of the appropriate stroke and direction; whereas the right side of the chart informs the left handed barber.
Shaving Area | Position and Stroke | Stroke Direction | Right-Handed Barber: Area of Face | Left-Handed Barber: Area of Face |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Freehand | Down | Start at RIGHT sideburn move towards the jawbone and angle of mouth. | Start at LEFT sideburn move towards the jawbone and angle of mouth. |
2 | Backhand | Down | From the angle of the mouth move towards the chin. | From the angle of the mouth move towards the chin. |
3 | Freehand | Down | From the centre of the upper lip towards the RIGHT corner of the mouth. | From the centre of the upper lip towards the LEFT corner of the mouth. |
4 | Freehand | Down | RIGHT jawbone to grain change. | LEFT jawbone to grain change. |
5 | Reverse Freehand | Up | RIGHT side of neck up towards the grain change. | LEFT side of neck up towards the grain change. |
6 | Backhand | Down | From the centre of the lip to the LEFT side of the mouth. | From the centre of the lip to the RIGHT side of the mouth. |
7 | Backhand | Down | From the LEFT sideburn towards the jawbone and angle of the mouth. | From the RIGHT sideburn towards the jawbone and angle of the mouth. |
8 | Freehand | Down | From angle of the mouth towards the point of the chin. | From angle of the mouth towards the point of the chin. |
9 | Backhand | Down | From the LEFT jawbone to the grain change. | From the RIGHT jawbone to the grain change. |
10 | Reverse Backhand | Up | LEFT side of the neck to the grain change. | RIGHT side of the neck to the grain change. |
11 | Freehand | Across | Across the chin from LEFT to the RIGHT. | Across the chin from RIGHT to the LEFT. |
12 | Freehand or Backhand | Down | Under the chin to the grain change. | Under the chin to the grain change. |
13 | Reverse Freehand | Up | Centre of the neck to the grain change. | Centre of the neck to the grain change. |
14 | Reverse Freehand | Up | Under the lower lip. | Under the lower lip. |
There are three main types of shaves traditionally practiced in barbershops:
Honing and stropping the razor is what maintains its sharp edge. If the razor begins to pull while shaving, and the resulting shave is not smooth, then it is time to hone and strop your blade.
Honing is the first step to sharpening the blade and consists of lightly passing the razor, leading with the edge, over a gritted stone. Hones come in various grits ranging from coarse to fine. Generally, a razor will be passed over a larger grit first, then a smaller grit, in order to gradually work down the delicate edge.
Stropping is the second and final step to sharpening the blade. To strop the razor, the blade is passed, leading with the back, along a canvas or leather strap. This action refines and smooths the honed blade into a precise cutting implement.
In the video below, you will see the honing and stropping procedure:
Video: Honing and Stropping with Straight Razor
Note: This video has no dialogue.
The wet shave has been a practical, everyday ritual for people with facial hair dating back thousands of years. Today, the straight razor shave is seen as a relaxing, almost spa-like experience, complete with warm towels and curated skin care products. Nothing compares to the straight razor in its ability to create a smooth, close shave.
The wet shave procedures covered in this chapter include:
A straight razor shave requires shaving of all fourteen shaving areas of the face in a systematic and sequential order, so as to provide a thorough shave service and to achieve the smoothest possible result.
Shaving in a sequence is important because it creates a pattern where dry skin will always be above the area you are shaving, which allows your off-hand to apply the appropriate tension and stretch the skin for each stroke.
The strokes utilized in the shave are:
A right-handed barber will start the shave at the client’s right side. The left-handed barber will begin at the left side and progress through the steps from that side.
The strokes are performed in the order shown in the diagram below:
Throughout the following procedure, ensure that you stretch the skin with your opposite hand, while maintaining a gentle, consistent pressure on the blade. The blade should be held consistently at a 30-degree angle.
When the service is complete, the client’s skin should feel smooth, tacky, and free of any redness or bumps. A skin moisturizer can be applied for extra soothing of the skin and added hydration.
Video: The Facial Shave Procedure
If the client is getting a haircut as well as a facial shave, they may require a nape shave to clean up their neckline for a complete finished look. This service can be performed alone as maintenance between haircuts, as part of an outline shave, or combined with the facial shave service.
Upon completion of all services, the following cleaning and disinfection practices must be completed. Always check with local authorities to make sure that these practices are in alignment with the requirements in your area.
Restricting bacterial growth.
Prevention of redness and irritation of the skin.
Prevent the growth of disease causing micro-organisms.
A product applied to the skin which contracts the skin cells and closes the pores.
Process in which the barber/stylist assesses the client and determines their wishes
The area of the head that sits between the apex (highest point of the head) and the occipital bone.
The amount of hair. Density is described as thin, average, or thick.
When referring to hair, the grain is the direction in which the hair grows from the follicle.
Ingrown hairs are the result of dead skin cells congesting the hair follicle. This causes the hair to grow sideways or turn back onto itself underneath the skin, rather than growing upward to the skin's surface as expected.
Skin cells responsible for giving the skin its colour pigment.
The nape area sits at the back of the head, between the occipital bone and the hairline.
The occipital bone sits at the back of the skull, directly above the nape.
The parietal ridge refers to the widest point of the head, also known as the crest.
The balance on either side of a central axis.
Refers to the width of the hair strand. Facial hair tends to be of medium to coarse texture.
Equal.
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Version | Date | Change | Details |
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1.00 | March 30, 2021 | Added to the B.C. Open Textbook Collection. |